Christmas markets and a cup of vin brulè

A journey to the mercatini di Natale of northern Italy, plus a recipe to make the iconic market drink, vin brulè, in your own home.

Jump to the Vin Brulè recipe

As part of my research for Natale, I planned an itinerary that would take me to a variety of Christmas markets across Italy. After all, one can’t write a festive cookbook without capturing those iconic European moments: cute wooden huts adorned with cheerful decorations; sweet treats; shiny ornaments; roasted chestnuts, and steaming cups of vin brulè.

The first market on my list was in Milan, slap-bang in the middle of the historic city, and against the canvas of a moody sky. Long rows of colourful chalets snaked around the base of Milan’s imposing Duomo with vendors selling spices, nuts, seeds, European biscotti, southern Italian delights, Christmas tree decorations, clothing and jars of vegan friendly choc-hazelnut spread.

I happened upon the second market quite by accident. In the alpine town of Cavalese, I discovered the ‘Mercatino Magnifico' tucked away in a little clearing, a small but picturesque mercatino, selling socks and hats, local liqueurs and children's toys. Snow fell heavily upon the market and its visitors, and I was certain I’d stepped into my very own Narnia.

By the time I reached the charming town of Trento, I still hadn’t managed to wrap my hands around a cup of vin brulè. This, I was very eager to remedy.

Trento

In Trento, the sky was a bright cerulean blue, not a whisper of clouds. The sun was shining, but lacking its full potential. My gloved fingers and knitted beanie were no defense against the mountain air.

At the entrance of Piazza de Fiera was a large Mercatino di Natale wooden sign. Just to the left of it was an information booth. I chatted with the friendly tourist officers and they seemed curious about my visit to their town. Perhaps Trento in the dead of winter was not an obvious choice for Aussie travellers. And judging by the lack of English-speaking conversations throughout the streets, I had the feeling that this market (as well as the town itself) didn't need to pander to international tourists. 

I strolled through the rows of huts selling artisanal ornaments and presepi, colourful baubles and local produce. The food stalls were predictably devoid of vegan options, something I was prepared for in this corner of Italy, but with plenty of speck, formaggio, salsiccia, bretzel, strauben and tortel di patate (a kind of potato rosti). As always, my safe bet was the caldarroste (roasted chestnuts) and vin brulè (to wash it all down). It was too early to stomach the wine, so I rain-checked it for later in the day and set off towards my cosy hotel to journal, edit photos and perhaps enjoy a little nap. 

Before I reached my hotel however, I stumbled upon a second Christmas market in the city centre. One stall selling local produce immediately caught my eye with its rows of dried porcini, DIY vin brulè kits, and packet mixes of polenta and risotto. I was intrigued by the apple and calendula risotto, as well as radicchio dell’orso (alpine sow thistle). But with my suitcase already overflowing with food souvenirs, I regretfully passed them by.

As darkness fell in the late afternoon, I returned to the first market in search of the best vin brulè. I was drawn to a stall that served the wine from a large copper pot, 'in rame'. Eagerly accepting my paper cup of the sweet potion, I strolled out of the market and through the streets of Trento - towards Piazza del Duomo. 

From a 12th-century tower, a bell donged five times.

People were coming and going - hooded, shadowy streaks crossing the piazza. In the centre was a fountain of Neptune lording over his trumpet-blowing sirens. Beside Neptune, was a giant tree glittering with fairy lights and red baubles that glowed like rubies. Surrounding the square were buildings from various centuries, lit up like a theatre set. 

I warmed myself in the freezing air with sips from the warm cup: a concoction of sugar, cloves, cinnamon and booze. The rising vapours lifted my spirits. With each sip I relaxed into the scene.

Just as I was finishing the dregs of my wine and ready to escape to the cocoon of my hotel room, a strange rattling sound entered the piazza, not too dissimilar to the sound of water rushing over rocks.

A band of rugged-up children with their parents (or perhaps teachers) were pulling strings of tin cans that had been tied together, and the ‘rushing water’ was the sound of tin hitting the hard cobblestones. I grabbed my phone and recorded this rather odd, yet charming, moment. I wondered, was it a festive tradition only or a game the children of Trento occasionally played? Either way, I’m not sure it would have the same enchanting effect on the suburban cement pavements back in Australia!

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Winter or cooler temperatures are the perfect time to warm yourself with sweet sips of vin brulè. Share this recipe with your loved ones, enjoy it outdoors in the crisp air beneath a starry sky, and conjure the spirit of Trento’s mountain markets.

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Vin brulé  (Northern Italian Mulled Wine)

With sweet warming spices, boozy vapours, vibrant berry colours and a fruity fragrance, vin brulé will captivate all your senses. I fondly recall my first experience at a Christmas market, where, in the crisp alpine air, vin brulé served from a bronze cauldron into a simple paper cup warmed both my body and spirit. For the best flavour, use organic or homegrown fruit, as well as a good-quality red wine. 

SERVES 4-6 

• ½ orange

• ½ lemon

• 1 red apple

• 175 g sugar

• large pinch of nutmeg

• 8 cloves

• 2 whole star anise

• 2 cinnamon sticks

• 750 ml full-bodied red wine

1. Cut the orange and lemon into slices and the apple into wedges.
   

2. In a saucepan, combine the sliced fruit, sugar, and spices, and then pour in the wine. Heat gently until the sugar has dissolved, ensuring the wine doesn't boil. Continue to heat for about 15 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse. Keep the temperature low to maintain a delicate simmer.
   

3. Strain the wine into heat-resistant glasses or mugs. Serve warm and enjoy those fragrant spicy vapours. 

Recipe from 'Natale: Recipes for a Vegan Italian Christmas'